Rare unheated ruby and diamond ring

Just exactly how rare is an unheated ruby? Regardless of its origin?

Much has been said and written about the differences in value between an unheated and heated ruby. In addition, there is also a category reserved for “glass-filled” or “lead-filled” or “lead glass-filled” rubies. These 3 terms pretty much mean the same thing, which essentially means, rubies that have been filled with high-lead-content glass, which made the rubies appear more transparent after the treatment process. Filling ruby material with lead glass enabled what would have been nothing more than material specimen mainly used for gemological studies; definitely nothing of decent commercial value. In addition, filling gemstones with lead glass actually adds carat weight to the material. What does this mean for end consumers? Essentially, consumers will pay more for glass instead of gemstones. More can be read about lead-filled rubies here: https://www.gia.edu/doc/SP06A2.pdf

Heated rubies in our present, modern-day gemstone and jewellery market have become more commonplace because it remains a fact that unheated, 100% natural rubies oftentimes, have a lacklustre and dull appearance. Ruby material is heated to improve the colour and clarity of the rough and ultimately, the polished gemstone. It is important to recognise this because it impacts the price differences between heated and unheated rubies and the market premium accorded to unheated rubies. Without the heating process, commercial quality rubies would have a lot more eye-visible inclusions, opacity and dullness, which would result in these rubies being unable to be sold at fair prices or worse, not sold at all.

Unheated rubies as mentioned above, are typically heavily included with a dull appearance. To understand it in a nutshell, as this article aptly describes: “Very few of the recovered rubies are of high enough quality to be sold on the market. In fact, only about 1% of all corundum found is gem quality. Of those rubies, only a fraction remains untreated.” https://thenaturalrubycompany.com/education/ruby-characteristics/ruby-rarity-value/

Let’s all take a moment to consider this statement: of the 1% of all corundum mined from earth being gem quality, only a fraction of this 1% remains untreated and unheated.

“Gem quality” usually means a gem has the aesthetic appeal to the human eye. Eye-clean, with even colour tones throughout the gemstone, with good brilliance and lustre.

Seen below is a rare unheated 1+ ct ruby, set in diamond halo with 18K Natural Gold. It is becoming increasingly difficult to source for eye-clean unheated rubies that are facetted and polished with a nice finish and cutting symmetry. In addition, unheated rubies are almost always presenting themselves in a somewhat dull and lacklustre appearance, oftentimes looking somewhat cloudy.

To find a ruby that checks the following will involve more than just luck:
1. Unheated
2. Eye-clean
3. Lively appearance with fair – good brilliance. Not dull and not cloudy looking
4. In a properly facetted, well-proportioned symmetry

Visit us at the Singapore Jewellery and Gem Fair 2016

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Colour-change Sapphire Ring

A unique colour-change sapphire. A blue sapphire with hint of sea green in daylight which shifts to purplish red in incandescent light. Though heated, this is definitely a sight to behold.

Colour Change Sapphire Ring Snowflake Design

Set in a duo-tone 18K yellow gold and white gold setting,  with diamonds aligned in a lotus-flower setting, this engagement ring is a feminine, remarkable beauty.

Colour Change Sapphire Proposal Ring

Colour Change Sapphire Engagement Ring Diamonds

Below is how the sapphire looks like in incandescent lighting:

This is the feedback from our client, who had never actually seen the stone in person during the decision making process. But with the help of a very dedicated fiancé and sister, we were able to create her dream engagement ring.

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Vintage style sapphire ring

With fine jewellery, one would expect that it is them who will be in search of that nice piece of rock, or that beautiful gemstone. But when the stars are aligned, without even realising it, the right gemstone will pick you.

And this is exactly what happened with this blue sapphire and our client. But this was no ordinary blue sapphire. It was a fine piece of blue sapphire (albeit heated) with a tint of sea green. Unfortunately, this hint of sea green is not picked up very well by the camera nor iPhone.

In documenting this hint of sea-green colour in the blue sapphire, we might be shooting ourselves in the foot as we might, very soon, get a a barrage of enquiries about whether we can source a similar blue sapphire with hint of sea-green. And in response to this, the answer is: this color is unique, rare and not commonly seen.

Vintage Style Midnight Blue Sapphire Ring

Vintage Style Sapphire Engagement Rings

Vintage Midnight Blue Sapphire Duotone Gold

Our client was quite specific in his design requirements. He had wanted to create a ring that had a slight vintage appeal, somewhat reminiscent of something from the victorian era, yet nothing too complicated nor dated. After some rounds of design tweaking, he was happy with the look and feel of the proposed design.

Some views of the work-in-progress photos below. Clearly before fine jewellery becomes sparkly as most people would recognise it as, the initial stages are very raw and organic. Which is not surprising really, as every material and component is God’s gift and the miracle of Mother Nature. Gemstones, gold and diamonds are all mined from rocks, earth and mineral components.

Bestowing a gift of handcrafted fine jewellery to your beloved is truly precious because  every component is 100% natural, earth-mined and organic. Every piece of fine jewellery has its own story. And every component; from the precious stone, to the diamond and the gold, has journeyed a long way from its origin – deep within the depths of earth, to find its way onto your person. A priceless treasure, a true keeper. 

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Engagement Ring Behind The Scenes

Goldsmithery

Here at Heritage Gems, we craft and build each and every piece of jewellery from scratch, by hand. Preserving the tradition of goldsmithery, our craftsmen wield gold strips and plates though the filing, sawing, forging, soldering process entirely by hand, to create the beauty our clients wear.

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Tips on care for your Heritage Gems fine jewellery

Congratulations on being a proud owner of a fine piece of jewellery from Heritage Gems! Our pieces are individually handcrafted to the finest quality standards that will withstand that test of time. However, before you go off and start banging your ring or bracelet on your kitchen sink, one should know by now that fine jewellery deserve to be treated with care and love. So please read on below on tips for caring for your fine jewellery by Heritage Gems.

  • LIFO: Last In, First Out. Fine jewellery should usually be the last item you wear before leaving the house and the first item out when arriving back home.
  • Avoid doing house chores and manual labour or washing the dishes with fine jewellery (especially those with diamonds or gemstones mounted on).
  • Gently wipe jewellery with the cleaning cloth provided by Heritage Gems
  • Do not clean jewellery with any type of chemicals, cleaning agents, harsh solvents, harsh liquids
  • If, and only if, one has to absolutely wash your jewellery, just rinse with mild hand-soap as how one would wash your hands regularly with mild hand-soap.
  • Store your jewellery in the jewellery box that came with during purchase.

Unbeknown to many, while diamonds are durable, they are not invincible to knocks and scratches. Diamonds are able to chip if exposed to knocks over sharp edges or surfaces.

Finally, as with all things, fine jewellery will develop scratches over time which is a natural process of wear and tear. To restore brand new shine to your jewellery, re-plating and polishing is always possible.

Saturated unheat blue sapphire in 18K Pink Gold

A truly unique engagement ring. Medium electric blue unheat sapphire in a 18K pink gold setting. Not very obvious at first glance that it is set in 18K pink gold. However, do a quick flip of the finger, and the subtle hint of pink gold becomes obvious. The devil is in the details.

This saturated “electric” blue sapphire has a slightly “creamy” lustre and a colour so intense, it beautifully complements that pinkish hue of the ring setting.

Unheat sapphires in this intense blue colour in large sizes (sizes larger than 4 cts) is becoming so increasingly difficult to source. When one chances upon this shade of intense “electric” blue, size and shape as determining criteria start to take a backseat. Quality of a fine gemstone is determined largely by colour, clarity and lustre.

 

Below: Unheat medium “electric” blue loupe-clean sapphire set in 18K Pink Gold

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Singapore Jewellery and Gem Fair 2015

In case we have missed you in our mailing list, we would like to extend the invitation to drop by our booth at the Singapore Jewellery and Gem Fair 2015 this Thursday (22 October) – Sunday (25 October) at the Marina Bay Sands Exhibition and Convention Centre.

We are located towards the back of the exhibition hall at booth H117.

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